Centella Asiatica (Cica) in Korean Skincare: The Ingredient Science
By Dr. Soo-Jin Kim · Seoul Cosmetic Chemist & Senior Editor, K-Ingredient
Updated Jun 2026- Centella asiatica ("cica") is a plant with four key skin actives.
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Quick Answer:
- Centella asiatica ("cica") is a plant with four key skin actives.
- Those actives: madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic, asiatic acid.
- Together they calm redness, rebuild barrier, and boost collagen.
- Effective cica creams usually run 0.1%–1% madecassoside or TECA.
This guide is for general education, not medical advice. Centella is well tolerated by most people, but plant extracts can still trigger reactions in sensitive skin. Patch-test any new cica product on your inner arm for 24–48 hours before full-face use, and see a doctor or dermatologist for persistent redness, rashes, or a skin condition. Concentrations and prices below change over time.
Centella shows up on almost every K-beauty shelf now. The little green tube with a tiger or a leaf on it? That's cica. But few articles explain the actual chemistry behind it. This one does.
What is Centella asiatica (cica) and why is it big in K-beauty?
Centella asiatica is a small green herb that grows in wet, tropical soil across Asia, including Madagascar and Korea's import supply chains. In skincare it's nicknamed "cica," short for the cica-care concept of calming and repairing stressed skin. Korea adopted it early because it pairs well with the gentle, barrier-first philosophy that defines K-beauty.
The plant has a long folk history for wound healing, which is exactly why brands lean on it. Korean formulators love it because it soothes without heavy actives that can sting reactive skin. That fit is why cica went from niche to mainstream in just a few years.
You'll see it labeled as Centella asiatica extract, cica, or "Madagascar Centella" on Korean product pages. On Olive Young's global store, cica is one of the most filtered ingredient categories. The demand is real, and so is the science.
There's also a cultural reason cica took off in Korea before the West caught up. Korean routines prize layering many gentle, low-irritation steps instead of a few harsh actives. Cica fits that mold perfectly. It lets you calm and repair without the redness that retinoids or strong acids can cause.
And the climate plays a part. Korea's harsh winters and humid summers stress the barrier, so soothing-and-repair ingredients sell year-round. Cica became a default answer to "my skin is irritated, what do I use?" That everyday usefulness is why it stuck.
What are madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic and asiatic acid?
Centella's power comes from a group of compounds called triterpenes. Four of them matter most, and together they're often sold as a refined complex called TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica) or the "Centella 4-component" blend. Each does a slightly different job on skin.
The two glycosides, madecassoside and asiaticoside, are the gentler, water-friendly actives most linked to calming and collagen support. The two acids, madecassic acid and asiatic acid, are more potent and tied to wound repair and anti-inflammatory action. Brands balance all four to get a calm-and-repair effect.
Why does the ratio matter? Whole-plant centella extract contains these actives at low and variable levels, depending on where and how the plant grew. TECA standardizes the mix so each batch delivers a known dose. That's the difference between a marketing "centella" claim and a measured active.
Here's a breakdown of the four actives in a typical TECA-style complex.
| Component | Type | Approx. % of typical TECA | Primary skin action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Madecassoside | Triterpene glycoside | ~40% | Soothes redness, supports collagen, antioxidant |
| Asiaticoside | Triterpene glycoside | ~30% | Wound healing, collagen synthesis, angiogenesis |
| Asiatic acid | Triterpene acid | ~15% | Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, repair |
| Madecassic acid | Triterpene acid | ~15% | Anti-inflammatory, barrier support |
Note: ratios vary by extract grade and supplier. "TECA" is a standardized form; raw Centella asiatica extract has lower, less consistent active levels.
How does centella work on skin? (mechanism — collagen, barrier, anti-inflammatory)
Centella works on three fronts at once, which is why it feels like a multitasker. First, the asiaticoside and madecassoside fractions stimulate fibroblasts to make more collagen, especially type I and type III. That's the same collagen your skin loses with age and sun damage.
Second, the acids and glycosides calm inflammation by dialing down inflammatory signals like TNF-alpha and reducing oxidative stress. This is the "anti-redness" effect people feel within days. Less visible irritation, less reactive flushing.
Third, centella supports the skin barrier by encouraging ceramide-related lipids and reducing water loss. A 2024 review in Pharmaceutics (2024) detailed these wound-healing and barrier mechanisms for topical Centella asiatica. So one plant covers calming, repair, and firming.
The active that links calming and firming is best documented in a 2023 review of asiaticoside and madecassoside in the Journal of Cellular and Molecular Medicine (2023). It maps how the two glycosides drive collagen synthesis and tamp down inflammatory pathways. That dual action is the core of cica's appeal.
What does the clinical evidence show for centella/madecassoside?
Centella is one of the better-studied botanicals in dermatology, with both lab and human data. Wound-healing studies are the oldest and strongest, showing faster closure and more collagen in treated tissue. The mechanisms and clinical efficacy of topical Centella are pulled together in Pharmaceutics (2024).
Human studies on photoaging are also promising. A controlled clinical study found that topical treatment improved skin structure and collagen-related markers in photodamaged skin, reported in Experimental Dermatology (2008). The cosmetic uses of Centella across formulations are reviewed in Postępy Dermatologii i Alergologii (2013).
For sensitive and inflamed skin, the data is just as encouraging. A 2020 study showed Centella asiatica extract reduced atopic-dermatitis-type inflammation in a DNCB model, published in Nutrients (2020). And madecassoside has been shown to protect skin cells from pollution-driven (PM2.5) damage in Biochemical and Biophysical Research Communications (2025).
Here's a snapshot of representative findings. Always read the original study for full detail.
| Study focus | Model | Key outcome | Year |
|---|---|---|---|
| Topical Centella wound healing | Review of in vivo + clinical | Faster healing, collagen support | 2024 |
| Asiaticoside + madecassoside actions | Review | Collagen synthesis, anti-inflammatory | 2023 |
| Centella on photoaging | Human (clinical) | Improved skin structure/collagen markers | 2008 |
| Centella extract on atopic-type skin | Cell + mouse (DNCB) | Reduced inflammatory response | 2020 |
| Madecassoside vs PM2.5 damage | Skin cells | Less pollution-induced cell damage | 2025 |
Outcomes summarized from peer-reviewed sources; effect sizes vary by dose, model, and study quality.
What madecassoside / TECA concentration is effective?
Most cica products don't list an exact active percentage, which makes this tricky. When they do, effective madecassoside or TECA levels usually fall between 0.1% and 1%. Higher isn't always better, because the actives work at fairly low concentrations and the rest of the formula matters.
For daily soothing, even a modest cica level paired with a good barrier base (ceramides, panthenol, glycerin) works well. For repair-focused creams or post-procedure use, look for products that name TECA or madecassoside specifically rather than just "Centella asiatica extract." Standardized actives are more reliable than vague leaf extracts.
One honest caveat: raw "Centella asiatica extract" near the top of an ingredient list can still be effective, but you can't verify the active dose. Korean clinical-leaning brands like Purito and SKIN1004 often disclose more detail on their .kr brand pages than mass brands do.
A practical tip: read the ingredient (INCI) list, not just the marketing. If you see madecassoside, asiaticoside, or "TECA" named individually, the brand has gone to the trouble of using the refined actives. That's usually a sign of a more serious cica formula.
Also watch the supporting cast. The best cica products surround the actives with barrier helpers like panthenol, ceramides, and glycerin. The centella does the calming, and the base keeps moisture locked in so the skin can actually repair.
Centella for which concerns? (redness, barrier, acne, post-procedure)
Cica earns its reputation with reactive, easily irritated skin. If your face flushes, stings with actives, or reacts to weather, centella is one of the safest soothing picks. It calms visible redness without the sting of stronger anti-inflammatories.
It's also a strong barrier helper. Over-exfoliated, tight, or dehydrated skin benefits from cica's lipid and water-loss support, which is why it pairs well with ceramides. For acne-prone skin, the anti-inflammatory action can reduce angry, inflamed breakouts, though it won't replace a real acne treatment.
Post-procedure is where centella shines in Korea. After lasers, microneedling, or strong peels, dermatology clinics often recommend cica to speed comfort and recovery. For broader routines, see our guides on Korean products for rosacea and redness and Korean skincare for sensitive, reactive skin.
One concern cica won't fix on its own is deep wrinkles or major sun damage. It supports collagen, but it's a soothing-and-repair ingredient, not a retinoid replacement. Think of it as the calming partner you pair with stronger actives, not a one-and-done anti-aging fix.
It also works best as a daily habit rather than a quick patch. The collagen and barrier benefits build over weeks of consistent use. A single application calms in the moment, but the real payoff comes from sticking with it.
Which Korean cica products are worth knowing?
Korea has more cica products than any other market, so it helps to know the standouts. These span the price range, from drugstore to premium, and use different forms of centella.
Dr.Jart's Cicapair line is the famous "tiger grass" range, known for its color-correcting cream and recovery products. SKIN1004's Madagascar Centella line focuses on single-origin centella in lightweight, affordable formats. Purito built much of its reputation on a gentle Centella green-level line aimed at sensitive skin.
Round Lab and other clean-leaning brands also fold cica into barrier creams and toners. The table below summarizes common picks. Treat prices and percentages as approximate; verify on the brand or retailer page.
A quick word on sourcing. SKIN1004 leans hard on single-origin Madagascar centella as a selling point, arguing that one clean source gives a more consistent active profile. Dr.Jart's Cicapair instead blends centella with a proprietary herb mix it calls tiger grass. Neither approach is automatically better; it depends on your skin and what else is in the formula.
Korean shoppers also rely on community ranking sites to sort the noise. Hwahae, Korea's largest cosmetics review app, ranks cica products by verified user ratings and ingredient safety scores. When this guide references Korean ranking or review data, those numbers were translated from the original Korean listings.
| Product | Centella form | Typical KRW | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dr.Jart Cicapair Cream | Tiger grass / Centella blend | ~38,000 | oliveyoung.co.kr |
| SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Ampoule | Single-origin Centella extract | ~20,000 | skin1004.com |
| Purito Centella Green Level (line) | Centella extract | ~18,000 | Hwahae listing |
| Round Lab cica/barrier cream | Centella + barrier lipids | ~22,000 | oliveyoung.co.kr |
Prices translated from Korean retailer listings and rounded; Hwahae user rankings were translated from Korean. Always confirm current pricing.
If you want to compare cica masks head to head, our Dr.Jart Cicapair sheet mask vs Ceramidin comparison breaks down which suits which skin type. For mask routines specifically, see Korean sheet masks for calming irritated skin.
Cica also pairs well with hydration-focused routines. If your barrier is compromised, layering cica over humectants helps; our Korean skincare for dehydrated skin guide covers that combo.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is centella asiatica the same as cica? Yes. "Cica" is the common nickname for Centella asiatica in skincare. The name comes from the cica-care idea of calming and repairing stressed skin, and the two terms are used interchangeably on Korean product labels.
What's the difference between madecassoside and centella extract? Madecassoside is one purified active inside centella, while "Centella asiatica extract" is the whole-plant extract containing all four actives at variable levels. Madecassoside-named or TECA products give you a more standardized, predictable dose than a generic leaf extract.
Can I use cica every day? For most people, yes. Centella is gentle enough for daily morning and night use and is often built into soothing moisturizers. Patch-test first if your skin is very reactive, and stop if you notice any irritation.
Does cica help with acne? It can reduce the redness and inflammation of breakouts, which makes acne look calmer, but it isn't a true acne treatment. Pair it with proven actives like salicylic acid or a prescribed treatment for the breakouts themselves.
Is centella safe after laser or microneedling? Korean clinics commonly recommend cica for post-procedure comfort and barrier support. Still, follow your provider's specific aftercare instructions, since fresh procedures need gentle handling and your doctor knows your case best.
Related Reading
- Korean products for rosacea and redness
- Korean skincare for sensitive, reactive skin
- New K-beauty ingredient trends emerging in 2026
Centella isn't hype. It's one of the few botanicals with real wound-healing and collagen data behind it, and Korea has spent years refining how to formulate it. If your skin is reactive, dehydrated, or recovering, cica earns its spot.
Pick a product that names its actives, patch-test it, and give it a few weeks. The green tube might just become the calmest part of your routine.
-- The K-Ingredient Team